Portraits & Paperbacks: A New Town Slow Day

Hours and openings change often — double-check each spot is still open before you head out.

The day, stop by stop

1. 1
   9:00 AM 60 min

   Urban Angel

   A softly bustling basement café where good coffee and generously assembled breakfasts ease you into the city's Georgian grid. Booking is useful at weekends.

   121 Hanover Street, Edinburgh EH2 1DJ, Scotland

   Directions
2. 2
   10:15 AM 90 min

   Scottish National Portrait Gallery

   Red sandstone outside, a dazzling painted hall within: Scotland's faces and stories make this an unusually atmospheric gallery morning. General admission is free.

   1 Queen Street, Edinburgh EH2 1JD, Scotland

   Directions
3. 3
   12:00 PM 75 min

   Chez Jules

   Red-check tablecloths, close-set tables and cheerful French-bistro bustle bring a little Parisian warmth to Hanover Street. Reserve a table for an unhurried lunch.

   109 Hanover Street, Edinburgh EH2 1DJ, Scotland

   Directions
4. 4
   1:30 PM 60 min

   Waterstones Edinburgh West End

   Browse Scottish writing and handsome travel shelves, then seek out the upper-floor castle views. The walk here follows busy George Street and Charlotte Square.

   128 Princes Street, Edinburgh EH2 4AD, Scotland

   Directions
5. 5
   2:45 PM 90 min

   Scottish National Gallery

   At New Town's southern edge, grand painting rooms offer a quiet counterpoint to Princes Street. Focus on the Scottish collection rather than trying to see everything; general admission is free.

   The Mound, Edinburgh EH2 2EL, Scotland

   Directions
6. 6
   4:45 PM 75 min

   Café Royal

   Ceramic murals, polished brass and stained glass deliver a richly Victorian finish. Book an early meal, or settle into the lively bar for a drink before leaving around six.

   19 West Register Street, Edinburgh EH2 2AA, Scotland

   Directions